Pandemic struggles of the traditional Manipuri restaurant ‘The Categorical Eat Pham’ – The New Indian Express

As with all restaurants in the capital, the country and the world, 2020 has been terrible for The Categorical Eat Pham in Humayunpur in Safdarjung. “We had no income, a lot of our employees went home and we couldn’t even pay the rent. Somehow we survived, making do with catering and odd jobs. We are doing well now, but we are still far from pre-pandemic levels, ”says co-owner Ashok Mutum.

The place that serves what comes closest to a Manipuri meal in Delhi started as a passion project for Mutum and his business partner, Poirei Yambem, in 2014. “We were cooking in our apartment after our normal chores., and then do the home delivery, mainly to friends and friends of friends. We were pleasantly surprised with the response and started to think about going further, ”Mutum recalls.

After a short break, the two quit their 9 to 5 jobs and, in 2015, opened a small cafe in the maze of restaurants, grocery stores and fashion boutiques in the northeast, in Humayunpur, nestled in the heart from South Delhi. “We serve traditional dishes from Manipur that the people of our state prepare at home. And because each house has its own way of preparing food, I would say we serve it in a classic, generic style, ”says Mutum.

The dishes have become cult over the past six years and, although little known to the general public, are on the favorites lists of chefs, epicureans and discerning palates. This is because the style of the dishes may remain the same, but the ingredients change frequently depending on the seasons and their myriad periods. “For example, our Eromba, one of our most popular dishes, changes almost every day depending on the ingredients we have on hand that day,” he says of the tangy mashed vegetables. of season, fermented fish and any other ingredient that strikes the fancy of the chef during its preparation.

Other notable dishes include the whole roast fish, snail and pork curry (any of their pork products) and the Manipuri Thali, the often-changing platter presentation that offers a crash course on the state kitchen.

“Before, it was quite difficult to source ingredients from us. And it’s still not really easy, but the situation has improved. Many ingredients are perishable and cannot survive such a long trip from so far away, so only fermented and pickled items can travel safely. But as Humayunpur grows, more and more stores are opening their doors offering fresh vegetables and herbs, ”says Mutum, noting that a growing community of young people in the northeast is fostering new business opportunities. and exchange.

Secondary anecdotes
The dishes have become cult for six years and, although little known to the general public, are among the favorites of chefs and gourmets. This is because the style of the dishes may remain the same, but the ingredients change according to the seasons and their countless periods.