#91: Chicken and Dumplings at Yummies Soul Food Cafe | Food and Beverage News | Saint Louis
Few foods epitomize comfort like the combination of long-simmered chicken and the resulting broth laden with handmade dough creations, whether matzoh balls, noodles or dumplings. It is the food we use to comfort us when we are sick and again when junk food and alcohol do not cure our ailments.
To Yummies Soul Food Cafethey’ve elevated the southern version of this comforting classic to decadence with their chicken and dumplings.
It’s not soup. Real chicken and dumplings never are. Instead, it’s a burst of pure chicken flavor that only comes from simmering a whole chicken for a very long time. Don’t be alarmed if you find a little chicken bone or cartilage in the chicken and meatballs. It just means that nothing in the bowl has ever made time in a box. What remains is a rich, concentrated flavor that permeates all aspects of the dish.
Tender chicken tears apart with the touch of a spoon, but not the hand-made dumplings. They manage to be substantial without being harsh or mushy. With just the right amount of yield to the tooth and a pinch of black pepper mixed into the batter, the meatballs take the weight off the richness of the chicken.
Add the overall warmth of the dish with the balance of richness and light, and the resulting effect can make you think all is well with the world. At least for a little while.
Since last year, RFT Restaurant critic Ian Froeb has listed – in no particular order – 100 of his favorite dishes in St. Louis. Now Gut Check has picked up where it left off. Check back frequently as we detail our 100 favourites, and feel free to send us yours too, either via the comments thread or at [email protected].
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